Propylene Glycol Hydroxystearate

What is Propylene Glycol Hydroxystearate?

Propylene Glycol Hydroxystearate is a diester compound created from propylene glycol, a simple alcohol, and 12-hydroxystearic acid derived from castor oil through hydrogenation. This ingredient falls into the fatty acid ester family, commonly found in lipsticks, balms, solid sticks, and emulsion-based products like creams. It works as an emollient by depositing a thin lubricating layer on skin to mimic natural lipids and reduce friction. In surfactant capacity, it decreases interfacial tension between ingredients for better blending. As an emulsifying agent, it bridges oil and water phases to form protective films that maintain product uniformity during storage and application. Its skin conditioning properties support barrier function, promoting even moisture distribution without greasiness. Valued for spreadability in anhydrous formulas, it enhances user experience in color cosmetics and personal care items.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →
PubChem View on PubChem →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Emollient
Softens and smooths skin by filling in surface roughness and improving slip; can also help reduce moisture loss when paired with occlusives and film formers.
Surfactant
Lowers surface tension to enable cleansing, emulsifying, and foaming; central to shampoos, body washes, and many emulsions and micellar systems.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.
Skin conditioning agent
Maintains skin softness, smoothness, and flexibility.

Benefits

Provides emollient action to soften and smooth skin texture.

Supports emulsification for stable, consistent product formulas.

Acts as skin conditioner to maintain flexibility and comfort.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
Individuals with dry skin needing softening agents.
Those sensitive to propylene glycol components.
Users of lip and stick products for smooth glide.
Individuals with allergies to castor-derived esters.
People seeking non-comedogenic emulsifiers in routines.
Users avoiding synthetic surfactants entirely.

Safety Notes

  • Low hazard rating with minimal irritation reports.
  • Non-comedogenic, suitable for acne-prone skin types.

Frequently Asked Questions about Propylene Glycol Hydroxystearate

What does it do in skincare?

Serves as emollient to soften skin, emulsifier for stability, and surfactant for blending.

Is it irritating?

Evidence shows low irritation potential for most users.

Safe for sensitive skin?

Generally low risk, but patch test if glycol-sensitive.