Polysorbate 81

What is Polysorbate 81?

Polysorbate 81, or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate, is a synthetic surfactant made from sorbitol sourced from corn, oleic acid from vegetable oils, and ethylene oxide through ethoxylation. It belongs to the polysorbate family commonly used in cosmetics like lotions, creams, cleansers, shampoos, and fragranced items. This ingredient acts at the oil-water interface, reducing surface tension to form stable emulsions that keep formulas uniform and prevent separation. It solubilizes hydrophobic fragrance oils into aqueous bases for even scent delivery and masks off-notes. As a surfactant, it aids in dispersing soils during cleansing. Its structure allows mild action, supporting product stability without heavy greasiness.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 3 View on EWG →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Fragrance ingredient
Contributes scent character and/or masks base odors, shaping the overall sensory experience of the formula (subject to allergen and IFRA considerations).
Surfactant
Lowers surface tension to enable cleansing, emulsifying, and foaming; central to shampoos, body washes, and many emulsions and micellar systems.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.

Benefits

Creates stable oil-in-water emulsions for smooth lotion and cream textures

Solubilizes fragrances evenly in water-based products for consistent scent

Assists gentle cleansing by lowering surface tension to lift dirt and oils

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
People using moisturizers or cleansers needing emulsion stability
Those with rare allergies to polysorbates or related ethoxylated compounds
Individuals enjoying scented skincare with balanced fragrance release
People sensitive to potential trace impurities from manufacturing
Acne-prone users, as it has a non-comedogenic profile
Users seeking only plant-derived or minimal synthetic ingredients

Safety Notes

  • Deemed safe in cosmetics at typical concentrations by expert reviews
  • Low irritation risk for most, especially in rinse-off applications

Frequently Asked Questions about Polysorbate 81

What does Polysorbate 81 do in skincare?

It emulsifies oil and water for stable textures, solubilizes fragrances, and supports mild cleansing as a surfactant.

Is Polysorbate 81 comedogenic?

No, it has a comedogenic rating of 0, making it unlikely to clog pores.

Is Polysorbate 81 safe for sensitive skin?

It generally shows low irritation in cosmetics, though patch testing is wise for sensitivities.