Polysorbate 80

Concerns
Malassezia Feeding

What is Polysorbate 80?

Polysorbate 80 is a nonionic surfactant chemically known as polyoxyethylene (80) sorbitan monooleate. It originates from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol derived from corn or fruits, esterified with oleic acid from vegetable oils like sunflower or olive, then ethoxylated with 20 ethylene oxide units. This process yields a water-soluble, amber-colored viscous liquid with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance around 15, suited for oil-in-water systems. In cosmetics, it appears in lotions, shampoos, body washes, fragrances, and micellar waters. It works by surrounding oil droplets with its hydrophilic heads, forming micelles that disperse immiscible phases evenly, preventing separation. This enables consistent textures, aids fragrance dispersion in watery bases for clear solutions, supports gentle foaming in cleansers, and denatures alcohol in sprays to comply with regulations.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 3 View on EWG →
PubChem View on PubChem →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Denaturant
Makes ethanol undrinkable (for regulatory/tax purposes) and can influence dry-down and sensory feel in alcohol-based sprays, toners, and fragrances.
Fragrance ingredient
Contributes scent character and/or masks base odors, shaping the overall sensory experience of the formula (subject to allergen and IFRA considerations).
Surfactant
Lowers surface tension to enable cleansing, emulsifying, and foaming; central to shampoos, body washes, and many emulsions and micellar systems.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.
Solubilizing agent
Helps incorporate oils and fragrance into water-based formulas by forming micro-solutions, enabling clear sprays, toners, and micellar products.

Benefits

Stabilizes emulsions in moisturizers and lotions for even application and longevity.

Solubilizes oils and scents in toners and sprays, creating lightweight clear formulas.

Offers mild surfactant action for foaming cleansers without high comedogenic potential.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
Users of water-based products needing oil incorporation, like toners and mists.
People experiencing Malassezia-related skin concerns.
Individuals seeking stable, non-separating cream textures.
Individuals sensitive to ethoxylated compounds.
Those prioritizing low comedogenic ingredients in daily routines.
Those with preferences for minimal synthetic surfactants.

Safety Notes

  • EWG rates it with a moderate concern score of 3.
  • Cosmetic Ingredient Review deems it safe in typical formulations.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polysorbate 80

What does Polysorbate 80 do in skincare?

It emulsifies oils into water, solubilizes fragrances, and aids mild cleansing in various products.

Is Polysorbate 80 safe for daily use?

Safety panels confirm safety at common levels, with EWG score of 3 indicating moderate concern.

Does it contribute to fungal acne?

Listed as a potential Malassezia-feeding ingredient, so caution advised for prone skin.