Polysorbate-40

Benefits
Softening
Concerns
Malassezia Feeding

What is Polysorbate-40?

Polysorbate-40 is a synthetic, non-ionic surfactant chemically known as polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate. It originates from sorbitol (derived from glucose), palmitic acid (a common fatty acid from plant or animal sources), and ethylene oxide through an ethoxylation process. In cosmetics, it belongs to the polysorbate family widely used in personal care formulations like lotions, creams, shampoos, and cleansers. Functionally, it reduces surface tension between oil and water phases, forming stable emulsions that prevent separation and ensure smooth application. As a solubilizer, it disperses hydrophobic ingredients like fragrances or oils into aqueous bases, creating clear solutions. Its surfactant properties enable foaming and cleansing in rinse-off products, contributing to even distribution and enhanced sensory feel without greasiness.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 3 View on EWG →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Surfactant
Lowers surface tension to enable cleansing, emulsifying, and foaming; central to shampoos, body washes, and many emulsions and micellar systems.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.
Solubilizing agent
Helps incorporate oils and fragrance into water-based formulas by forming micro-solutions, enabling clear sprays, toners, and micellar products.

Benefits

Supports stable emulsions for consistent lotion and cream textures.

Facilitates solubilization of fragrances and oils in water-based formulas like toners.

Promotes softening sensation through gentle surfactant action in cleansers.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
Individuals seeking non-comedogenic emulsifiers in oil-free moisturizers.
Those prone to Malassezia-related skin issues like folliculitis.
Users of foaming cleansers needing reliable lathering without pore clogging.
Individuals with sensitivity to ethoxylated surfactants.
People formulating clear sprays or micellar waters with essential oils.
Users preferring completely natural, non-synthetic ingredient profiles.

Safety Notes

  • Rated low hazard by EWG, indicating minimal health concerns in typical use.
  • Deemed safe for cosmetic applications by expert reviews on ingredient safety.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polysorbate-40

What does Polysorbate-40 do in skincare?

It acts as a surfactant to cleanse and foam, emulsifies oils into water, and solubilizes fragrances for stable, clear formulas.

Is Polysorbate-40 safe for daily use?

Safety evaluations from regulatory bodies support its use in cosmetics at standard levels with low hazard ratings.

Does it feed skin yeast like Malassezia?

It may serve as a nutrient source for Malassezia, so caution advised for those with related conditions.