Polysorbate-20

Benefits
Nutrifying
Concerns
Malassezia Feeding

What is Polysorbate-20?

Polysorbate-20 is a synthetic compound created by reacting sorbitol, a sugar-derived alcohol, with lauric acid from coconut or palm sources, then adding ethylene oxide to form a chain of 20 polyoxyethylene units. This results in a hydrophilic, nonionic surfactant widely used in skincare, haircare, and makeup products like cleansers, lotions, toners, and shampoos. It functions by lowering surface tension between oil and water, stabilizing emulsions to prevent separation, and forming micelles that solubilize lipophilic ingredients such as essential oils and fragrances into aqueous formulas. This enables clear, homogeneous products with improved texture and sensory feel, commonly at low concentrations in rinse-off and leave-on formulations.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 3 View on EWG →
PubChem View on PubChem →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Fragrance ingredient
Contributes scent character and/or masks base odors, shaping the overall sensory experience of the formula (subject to allergen and IFRA considerations).
Surfactant
Lowers surface tension to enable cleansing, emulsifying, and foaming; central to shampoos, body washes, and many emulsions and micellar systems.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.
Solubilizing agent
Helps incorporate oils and fragrance into water-based formulas by forming micro-solutions, enabling clear sprays, toners, and micellar products.

Benefits

Stabilizes oil-in-water emulsions for creamy, non-separating lotions and creams.

Solubilizes fragrances and oils, creating clear toners and sprays without cloudiness.

Supports gentle cleansing in washes by reducing surface tension for effective yet mild foaming.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
People seeking stable, clear water-based products like micellar waters.
Those prone to Malassezia-related skin issues like fungal acne.
Individuals wanting fragrance-enhanced formulas without separation.
People with sensitivity to ethoxylated ingredients.
Users of emulsified moisturizers for even ingredient distribution.
Individuals preferring minimalistic, non-surfactant formulations.

Safety Notes

  • Deemed safe for cosmetic use by expert reviews at typical concentrations.
  • Low comedogenic potential, unlikely to clog pores.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polysorbate-20

What does Polysorbate-20 do in skincare?

It emulsifies oils into water, solubilizes fragrances, and aids cleansing for stable, clear products.

Is Polysorbate-20 safe for daily use?

Yes, regulatory reviews support its safety in cosmetics at standard levels.

Does it cause breakouts?

Rated non-comedogenic, but may feed Malassezia in prone individuals.