Polyhydroxystearic Acid

What is Polyhydroxystearic Acid?

Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a biodegradable polymer produced by the esterification and polymerization of 12-hydroxystearic acid, sourced from hydrogenated castor oil. This pale yellow, waxy material is commonly incorporated into decorative cosmetics, sunscreens, and cleansing products. It excels as a suspending agent by creating a gel-like network that immobilizes insoluble particles such as mineral pigments or exfoliants, inhibiting sedimentation and promoting uniform distribution during application. As an emulsifying agent, it lowers interfacial tension between oil and water phases, fostering robust emulsions that resist creaming or splitting. This dual functionality enhances product shelf-life and sensory attributes, delivering consistent opacity, spreadability, and non-dripping consistency without altering skin feel.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Suspending agent
Keeps insoluble particles (pigments, beads, actives) evenly dispersed by increasing viscosity or forming a network, preventing settling and separation.
Emulsifying agent
Enables stable mixing of oil and water phases by forming an interfacial film, helping create lotions, creams, and cleansers with consistent texture.

Benefits

Promotes even pigment dispersion in sunscreens and foundations for reliable coverage.

Supports stable emulsions in lotions and cleansers, avoiding separation.

Improves overall product viscosity for smoother application and texture.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
Users of mineral-based sunscreens for non-settling formulas.
Those with rare allergies to castor oil derivatives.
Individuals applying tinted moisturizers or foundations daily.
Individuals preferring formulations without fatty acid polymers.
People seeking cleansers and creams with lasting stability.
People sensitive to waxy emollients, despite low irritation data.

Safety Notes

  • Assessed as safe for cosmetic use by expert reviews.
  • Non-comedogenic with no pore-clogging concerns.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polyhydroxystearic Acid

What does Polyhydroxystearic Acid do in products?

It suspends particles like pigments to prevent settling and emulsifies oil-water mixes for stable textures.

Is Polyhydroxystearic Acid safe for daily use?

Yes, it carries low safety hazard ratings and is approved for cosmetics.

Can it clog pores?

No, it has a comedogenic rating of zero.