Phytosteryl Hydroxystearate

What is Phytosteryl Hydroxystearate?

Phytosteryl Hydroxystearate is a lipid ester formed from phytosterols, which are plant-derived sterols similar to cholesterol found in human skin, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, obtained from hydrogenated castor oil or other vegetable sources. This waxy, semi-solid ingredient belongs to the emollient category in cosmetics. It appears in anhydrous formulations such as lipsticks, mascaras, and balms, as well as some creams. In products, it works by creating a breathable occlusive layer on the skin's surface, which helps lock in moisture while allowing the skin to breathe. Its unique structure mimics natural skin lipids, improving spreadability, reducing greasiness, and stabilizing emulsions. This makes it ideal for providing a smooth, non-sticky finish in makeup and skin care items.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Skin conditioning agent
Maintains skin softness, smoothness, and flexibility.

Benefits

Supports skin's natural barrier for better hydration retention.

Delivers a silky, smooth texture to skin and formulations.

Aids in even application of color cosmetics without heaviness.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
People with dry or rough skin seeking emollient effects.
Those with known allergies to plant sterols or fatty acid derivatives.
Users of lip and eye makeup for comfortable wear.
People sensitive to castor oil-derived components.
Individuals preferring non-greasy conditioning agents.
Anyone experiencing reactions in patch tests with similar esters.

Safety Notes

  • Considered low hazard with minimal risk of irritation in typical use.
  • Non-comedogenic, unlikely to contribute to clogged pores.

Frequently Asked Questions about Phytosteryl Hydroxystearate

What does Phytosteryl Hydroxystearate do in skincare?

It acts as an emollient to soften skin, improve texture, and support moisture retention.

Is it safe for sensitive skin?

It shows low irritation potential and is suitable for most skin types when formulated properly.

Where is it commonly used?

Found in lipsticks, mascaras, and anhydrous creams for smooth application and conditioning.