Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate

What is Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate?

Hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate is a high-molecular-weight ester synthesized from a long-chain C28 alcohol (octacosanol derivative) and 12-hydroxystearic acid, a modified fatty acid with a hydroxyl group. This creates a wax-like substance commonly used in anhydrous cosmetics such as lipsticks, balms, mascaras, and deodorant sticks. It functions by self-assembling into a three-dimensional crystalline matrix upon cooling, which imparts solidity, creaminess, and adhesion to products while preventing separation. As an emollient, it coats the skin's surface with a non-occlusive film, promoting smoothness and flexibility without deep penetration due to its size. In formulations, it balances viscosity for better application and sensory feel, particularly in oil-based systems.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →
PubChem View on PubChem →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Skin conditioning agent
Maintains skin softness, smoothness, and flexibility.
Viscosity controlling agent
Adjusts thickness to the desired level for stability and usability, improving dispensing, suspension, and texture across many formulation types.
Emollient
Softens and smooths skin by filling in surface roughness and improving slip; can also help reduce moisture loss when paired with occlusives and film formers.

Benefits

Provides surface-level softening and smoothing for comfortable skin feel.

Improves product thickness and stability for even dispensing.

Enhances slip and texture in anhydrous cosmetics like balms.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
Individuals with dry or chapped skin seeking emollient effects.
People with rare allergies to fatty acid esters.
Users of solid-format products like lipsticks for better wear.
Those preferring fully natural or plant-derived ingredients.
Those desiring stable, non-dripping formulations.
Users sensitive to waxy textures in cosmetics.

Safety Notes

  • Considered low hazard in cosmetic concentrations.
  • Non-comedogenic, unlikely to clog pores.

Frequently Asked Questions about Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate

What is hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate?

A synthetic wax ester used in cosmetics for emolliency and thickening solid products like lip balms.

Is it safe for skin?

Yes, it carries a low safety hazard rating and suits most skin types in typical amounts.

Does it cause acne?

No, it has a comedogenic rating of zero, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.