Glycyrrhetinic Acid
What is Glycyrrhetinic Acid?
Glycyrrhetinic acid is a pentacyclic triterpenoid sapogenin produced by hydrolyzing glycyrrhizic acid from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, commonly known as licorice. This plant-sourced compound features a steroid-like structure but originates botanically. In cosmetic formulations, it serves as a skin conditioning agent in products like moisturizers, serums, and calming creams, especially for sensitive skin types. It works by interacting with skin lipids to enhance barrier integrity, promote hydration retention, and modulate inflammatory pathways through enzyme inhibition, such as phospholipase A2. Its lipophilic properties enable absorption into the upper skin layers, fostering suppleness and resilience without promoting pore blockage.
Roles in Formulation
This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:
Benefits
Delivers soothing sensations to skin.
Enhances skin softness, smoothness, and flexibility.
Supports overall skin conditioning.
Who It's For
A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).
| Who May Benefit | Who Should Avoid |
|---|---|
| People with sensitive skin. | Those allergic to licorice. |
| Individuals noticing environmental discomfort. | People with triterpenoid sensitivities. |
| Users preferring botanical conditioners. | Anyone preferring to patch test new ingredients. |
Safety Notes
- Rated low hazard by EWG (1).
- Non-comedogenic with rating of 0.
Frequently Asked Questions about Glycyrrhetinic Acid
What derives glycyrrhetinic acid?
It comes from licorice root via glycyrrhizic acid hydrolysis.
Is glycyrrhetinic acid comedogenic?
No, it has a rating of 0, suitable for acne-prone skin.
What role does it play in cosmetics?
Acts as a skin conditioning agent to maintain softness and flexibility.