Azelaic Acid

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a straight-chain dicarboxylic acid containing nine carbon atoms, occurring naturally in cereal grains like wheat, rye, and barley, and produced by the yeast Malassezia on human skin. In cosmetics, it falls into the category of multifunctional active ingredients typically incorporated into creams, gels, and serums for facial applications. It functions primarily by adjusting and stabilizing pH levels to optimize formula performance and ingredient efficacy, while also acting as a buffering agent to prevent pH fluctuations over time. Its mild acidic nature helps mask undesirable odors, contributing to a pleasant user experience. This versatile compound integrates seamlessly into formulations, aiding overall product stability and sensory qualities without compromising skin tolerance.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores

EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →

PubChem View on PubChem →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Fragrance ingredient

Contributes scent character and/or masks base odors, shaping the overall sensory experience of the formula (subject to allergen and IFRA considerations).

PH adjuster

Raises or lowers pH to the target range, supporting ingredient performance, preservative efficacy, stability, and user comfort.

Buffering agent

Maintains the pH stability of a formulation.

Masking

Reduces perception of unpleasant odors or tastes by neutralizing them or covering them with more acceptable sensory notes.

Benefits

Supports pH balance for enhanced formula stability and ingredient effectiveness

Helps maintain even-looking skin tone through gentle action

Provides non-comedogenic properties suitable for blemish-prone skin

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit	Who Should Avoid
Individuals with oily or combination skin seeking stability in routines	People with known allergies to dicarboxylic acids
People experiencing redness or uneven texture	Those with extremely compromised skin barriers
Those preferring mild, multi-role ingredients in daily skincare	Individuals sensitive to acidic components initially

Safety Notes

Rated low hazard by authoritative databases with comedogenic rating of zero
Patch testing advised to assess personal tolerance

Frequently Asked Questions about Azelaic Acid

What is azelaic acid derived from?

It comes naturally from grains like wheat and rye, and skin yeast metabolism.

Is azelaic acid irritating?

Evidence shows low irritation potential, well-tolerated by most skin types.

What roles does it play in formulas?

Serves as pH adjuster, buffering agent, masking, and fragrance contributor.