Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

What is Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate?

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate is a synthetic diester formed by linking L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and DL-α-tocopherol (vitamin E) via maleic acid, creating a lipophilic molecule with enhanced stability compared to individual vitamins. This chemical structure allows it to dissolve in oils and emulsions, making it suitable for anhydrous or oil-based cosmetic formulations like creams, lotions, and serums. Primarily categorized as an antioxidant, it functions by scavenging free radicals and donating hydrogen atoms to stabilize reactive oxygen species, thereby protecting product ingredients such as oils and fragrances from oxidative degradation, rancidity, and discoloration. Its emollient and skin conditioning properties derive from the tocopherol component, which lubricates the skin surface and supports barrier function by reducing transepidermal water loss when combined with other agents. Used at trace levels, it contributes to overall formulation integrity and subtle skin feel improvement without altering product pH significantly.

Comedogenic Rating 0/5 Low risk of clogging pores
EWG Safety Rating 1 View on EWG →

Roles in Formulation

This ingredient serves the following purposes in cosmetic formulations:

Antioxidant
Slows oxidation of oils, fragrances, and sensitive actives to improve shelf life and reduce rancidity or color change; sometimes also supports skin protection from oxidative stress.
Emollient
Softens and smooths skin by filling in surface roughness and improving slip; can also help reduce moisture loss when paired with occlusives and film formers.
Skin conditioning agent
Maintains skin softness, smoothness, and flexibility.

Benefits

Provides antioxidant action to shield product ingredients from oxidation and extend shelf life.

Acts as an emollient to soften skin and enhance product spreadability.

Supports skin conditioning by promoting smoothness and flexibility.

Who It's For

A quick guide for who this ingredient may suit (and who should be cautious).

Who May Benefit Who Should Avoid
People with dry or rough skin seeking softening effects.
Those with known sensitivities to vitamin C or E derivatives.
Individuals incorporating antioxidant-rich formulations into routines.
People experiencing reactions to maleate esters.
Users of oil-based moisturizers or serums for added stability.
Individuals preferring water-soluble vitamin forms exclusively.

Safety Notes

  • Considered low hazard in cosmetic use based on safety assessments.
  • Patch testing recommended for new users despite general tolerance.

Frequently Asked Questions about Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

What makes Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate stable?

Its lipophilic structure from vitamin C, E, and maleate resists oxidation better than water-soluble forms.

Is it suitable for oily skin?

Yes, with zero comedogenic rating, it avoids pore clogging while providing emollient benefits.

How does it function in products?

Neutralizes free radicals to prevent rancidity and supports skin softness as a conditioning agent.